In June 2025, Chanel unveiled Nevold, a bold new standalone platform aimed at revolutionising the use of recycled materials at scale in luxury fashion and beyond. This marks a pivotal moment not only for Chanel but for the entire industry, signalling a structural shift from symbolic sustainability gestures toward industrial-scale circularity solutions. Named as a shorthand for “never old,” Nevold reflects Chanel’s ambition to reimagine the lifecycle of luxury materials in response to the growing scarcity of high-quality traceable raw fibres.
The Genesis of Nevold: Ambition Meets Innovation
Nevold was created as Chanel’s initiative in 2024 and formally announced in early 2025, led by Sophie Brocart, former CEO of LVMH-owned Patou and a trained engineer, who joined Chanel earlier this year. Brocart’s leadership cements the project’s seriousness, combining luxury heritage with technical expertise. Unlike many fashion sustainability efforts that remain embedded within a brand’s marketing ecosystem, Nevold is designed as an independent B2B entity focused on solving the fundamental challenge of textile and leather circularity.
As the official description notes: “NEVOLD is an independent entity dedicated to the circularity challenges of the main natural textile and leather materials. It brings together an ecosystem of start-ups and companies offering operational solutions in this field.” Its mission is to foster industrial and academic partnerships that accelerate large-scale innovation for recycled fibres, aiming not only to serve Chanel but the wider textile and luxury good sectors.
Chanel’s Strategic Move: Beyond Greenwashing
The launch of Nevold breaks from the pattern of isolated capsule collections or marketing campaigns that dominate luxury sustainability rhetoric. Chanel has positioned Nevold as a standalone, B2B platform – not just a PR initiative – aiming to scale recycled materials across industries. But will this be a significant step toward genuine circularity, or is it still too early to tell? “I think it’s both – undeniably significant and, yes, still early to say,” Stefan Siegel, entrepreneur and public speaker, tells BurdaLuxury.
Nevertheless, it’s been a positive reaction. “The fact that a house like Chanel is launching a B2B platform signals a structural shift,” he says. “It’s no longer just about capsule collections or greenwashing press releases. Nevold suggests they’re trying to build industrial infrastructure, and that’s where real change begins.”
This infrastructural approach is critical. The fashion industry has long been plagued by fragmented supply chains and a lack of scalable, transparent solutions for recycled materials. Access to a high-quality recycled fibres is one of the biggest issues for designers focused on circularity. Siegel, founder of Not Just A Label (NJAL), which supports 50,000+ designers globally, highlights this. “We’ve seen firsthand that access to high-quality recycled materials is one of the biggest bottlenecks in circular design,” he says. “So, if Nevold can truly scale material innovation, especially across industries, it could be a game changer. But its success depends on openness, access, and collaboration. If it remains a closed ecosystem for a handful of conglomerates, the impact will be limited.”
Transparency and Accountability: The Backbone of Impact
Sustainability initiatives in fashion often stumble without rigorous transparency and measurable outcomes. “Transparency is the foundation – without it, nothing else matters,” says Siegel. “What often gets overlooked is that transparency isn’t just about publishing ESG reports; it’s about creating systems where accountability is built in.”
Without measurable targets – like reductions in CO2 emissions, the volume of waste diverted, or the proportion of recycled inputs – it’s nearly impossible to separate meaningful innovation from mere corporate narrative.
“I’ve always believed that the future of fashion isn’t just beautiful – it’s measurable,” he says. “And we’re at a moment where creative leadership and data literacy need to coexist.”
The insistence on measurable goal is crucial to ensure Nevold delivers authentic environmental benefits rather than simply bolstering Chanel’s brand image. For Nevold to truly disrupt, it must define clear KPIs such as emissions reductions, waste diversion percentages, and recycled fibre integration targets.
Reframing Luxury: Material Responsibility as Craftsmanship
Luxury fashion balances a delicate tension: consumers want sustainability but also expect exclusivity, craftsmanship, and timeless appeal. Can Nevold help luxury brands balance aspirational design with material responsibility in a credible way?
“Absolutely – but only if it avoids the trap of compromise,” says Siegel. “The key is for material innovation to be treated as part of the design process, not an afterthought. The narrative around craftsmanship needs to evolve: material responsibility should be part of the story of quality, not in conflict with it.”
Initiatives like Nevold have the potential to redefine “exclusivity,” shifting it from arbitrary scarcity to a focus on intentional design, enduring quality, and a richer connection to craftsmanship. “If a Chanel dress tells a story about recycled fibres that came from a high-tech circular supply chain, that doesn’t diminish its luxury – it enhances it,” he explains.
This is transformative proposition: elevating recycled fibres from a compromise to a design asset, enriching the brand story and luxury cachet through technical innovation and sustainability. It invites heritage maisons to rethink the meaning of exclusivity beyond rarity alone, embracing longevity and circularity as new hallmarks of luxury.
Industry and Regional Impact: Asia and Beyond
Chanel’s leadership with Nevold will inevitably impact the broader fashion ecosystem, including the vital Asian markets. Sustainability adoption in Asia has historically trailed Europe and North America, partly due to consumer attitudes and education levels.
Sarah Fung of HULA , a pre-loved luxury store, captures this regional nuance: “I’m excited about this initiative and believe Chanel will execute it effectively. Their investment in this area will likely shift perceptions of circularity towards a more luxurious standard. Any movement toward sustainability, regardless of its underlying motivation, is a positive step.”
Fung highlights that it has been challenging for luxury brands, particularly concerning resale, to fully embrace circularity. “While some brands have attempted it, it may never become their core business. Nevold, however, focuses on textile waste rather than resale. Although both are circular, addressing deadstock materials might be easier for a brand like Chanel, as it may be perceived as less dilutive to the brand compared to resale,” she explains.
The distinction is crucial: textile recycling vs. resale. Resale markets can be seen as conflicting with luxury’s exclusivity, whereas Nevold’s focus on deadstock and textile waste leverages underutilised resources to create new materials that can fit seamlessly into the luxury pipeline without brand dilution.
Looking ahead, Fung notes a shift in consumer receptiveness in Asia. “A few years ago, I would have said no. However, I now believe there’s an opportunity if it’s positioned effectively, starting with luxury brands. Traditionally, Asia has lagged behind the West in sustainability, and consumers haven’t always been willing to pay a premium for it. Perhaps with more education and understanding of the complexities involved in using deadstock materials, which is often more challenging than creating from scratch due to limitations, consumers may gradually become more receptive.”
Nevold’s success in Asia will depend heavily on consumer education and positioning. The brand’s authority and luxury positioning can catalyse a mindset shift in affluent Asian consumers, who increasingly value environmental and social impact but require compelling narratives to justify price premiums.
Broader Industry Ramifications
Nevold’s ambition extends beyond Chanel and Asia. If it succeeds in building an open industrial ecosystem, it should become a blueprint for cross-industry collaboration that addresses one of fashion’s most pressing material challenges.
According to recent data, the global fashion industry accounts for approximately 10% of annual carbon emissions and generates over 92 million tonnes of waste yearly, with textile waste a significant contributor. Nevold’s aim to scale recycled fibres could help reduce reliance on virgin materials and lower environmental impacts significantly.
Moreover, as more luxury houses face pressure to decarbonise and demonstrate authenticity in sustainability, they may adopt or integrate solutions pioneered by Nevold. This could accelerate material innovation, foster shared infrastructure, and normalise recycled fibres in luxury goods.
Brands like Gucci and Stella McCartney have previously championed sustainability initiatives, but Nevold represents a systemic, infrastructure-led approach rather than isolated product stories. It may inspire new industry standards and compel players in the mid-tier and mass market to follow suit, reshaping supply chains and consumer expectations.
BurdaLuxury’s Lens
Chanel’s Nevold is not just another sustainability announcement; it is a structural bet on the future of luxury materials and circularity. By establishing a standalone B2B platform, investing in partnerships, and focusing on scalability and transparency, Chanel is charting a course that could redefine what luxury means in the 21st century – blending heritage craftsmanship with radical material innovation and environmental accountability.
Chanel’s Nevold may well be the first major step toward this vision, setting new standards for the industry and inspiring both established brands and emerging markets, including Asia, to embrace circularity with authenticity and ambition.
Luxury’s next chapter will be written not just in exquisite design but in the fibres of its circular supply chains – never old, always evolving.
